It is generally accepted that the laboratories and test centers are of great importance in ensuring the quality and standards demanded by the textile sector. Certificating the products ensures long-term benefits both for the manufacturers and the buyers. Hohenstein Institute, which has been carrying out studies in this field and offers innovative solutions to the sector, has a mission beyond just being a test lab. We talked to Güler Sunay, Vice General Manager of Hohenstein İstanbul and Önder Kirpiye, Certification Department Officer, about the studies performed in Turkey and in the global market by the company, which has brought the concept of ‘standard’ in the sector with OEKO-TEX 100 standard.
Güler Sunay stated that Hohenstein Institute stands out with the researches it performed and the experience it has gained in the field of textile across the world since 1946. Sunay stated that outside of its Germany office, Hohenstein Institute has been organized on the global scale and it helps the sector in creating its quality standards with the offices it has got. Sunay added that the İstanbul Office carries out studies in this direction.
Label is Important in Branding and Producing Identified Products
Arguing that it would be more efficient for the companies to enter the labeling process step by step, Sunay said that the brands should not overlook this fact throughout the branding process. Sunay underlined that the fields of textile and apparel are directly related with the issues of nature and sustainability. Sunay added that the brands that provide the export products with Oeko Tex should also provide the domestic products with the same certification. Sunay stated that the retail and sales staff should also be trained about certification.
Sunay continued by saying; “Traceability of a product is very important. These labels and certifications provide the product with an identity. The consumers will be able to prodect themselves by staying away from the unidentified products, which will be eliminated in time as a result of the lack of demand. In this process we first began to interview with the manufacturing companies. Today it is really hard to get a share from the market without having a certification. Our projects on entering the OEKO-TEX 100 standard in the domestic market has different aspects related with the manufacturers, consumers and the press. In the upcoming period, Hohenstein will dwell upon the issue of raising the awareness of the consumers.”
Oeko Tex Label Should be Used in the Domestic Market
Güler Sunay stated that the quality in textile should also be raised in the domestic market. Sunay continued by saying; We are working on this issue and conducting studies especially on work clothes and protective clothing. The standards for this clothings are very important. Turkish people deserve to dress well. The manufacturers should place labels, which indicate their standards, not only on their export items but also on their products for the domestic market. Turkish people are not less valuable than the others. We want to use Hohenstein Tested Quality label on the products for the domestic market.”
Sunay emphasized that in Turkey, some brands, especially in the field of baby clothes and underwear, started to use this labels on their products. Sunay remarked that it would be effective if the consumers become more conscious and place demand. “This label is the proof that the product has risen its standard in every aspects. The quality of the products, in which dyestuffs of unknown origin are used and the products that have certified their standards can not be the same. These standards brings costs to the companies. Besides, with this label that will be added on the products, the competition with the low quality products will be prevented.”
Hong Kong Laboratory has Gone into Operation
Önder Kirpiye, Certification Department Officer, stated that with its production power, Asian region is one of the most important locations in the global textile sector and for that reason Hohenstein conducts intensive studies in this region in order to be in direct connection with the manufacturers. “Hohenstein already has offices at many points in the Asian region. Besides Hohenstein has opened its first lab outside of Germany in Hong Kong. Considering the potential of the Far East in the textile sector, Hohenstein thought that it would be necessary to open a lab in the region in order to be close to the countries such as China, Hong Kong, India and Thailand. The lab that was opened at the beginning of 2012 will bring many advantages to the manufacturers in Turkey and to the Asian region,” said Kirpiye. Reminding that Hohenstein’s lab in İstanbul was closed in 2005 and continued to provide service as an office, Kirpiye remarked that the laboratory operations of the Turkish manufacturers are performed in the company’s center in Germany.
Kirpiye said that as the lab was opened in Hong Kong, a new alternative has been created for the Turkish manufacturers. “We inform our turkish customers about the new lab. Since it was opened a short time ago, some discounts – compared to the Germany office - are made and a more flexible structure is offered. We’ve started to receive feedbacks from our customers. The lab in Hong Kong meets the main test demands except from OEKO-Tex. The lab needs to reach a certain amount of tests for the ISO 17025 accreditation. Therefore in order fort ha lab to reach that amount we’ve given the priority temporarily to Hong Kong,” said Kirpiye.
Önder Kirpiye said that physical and chemical tests, heavy metal, AZO dyestuffs, allergic dye tests, complete color fastness, light fastness, water fastness and rubbing fastness tests are done in the Hong Kong lab and he underlined that the center in Germany is preferred for the operations, in which there is no price advantage. Kirpiye stated that the report prepared at the end of the tests are compiled by the name of Hong Kong lab and after the ISO 17025 accreditation, the test results will be provided in a way equivalent to the process performed at the center in Germany.
Önder Kirpiye underlined that the Turkish manufacturers perform production not only in Turkey but also in Bangladesh, India and China and added that Hong Kong lab will eliminate the necessity to wait for a long time for the tests. Kirpiye stated that Hohenstein contributes greatly to the Asian market by providing the regional market with quick and appropriate control. Kirpiye reminded that although the lab is new to the region, the office has been active since 2005 in the region.
Hohenstein İstanbul Supports the Sector
Güler Sunay, Vice General Manager of Hohenstein İstanbul, stated that in Turkey, OEKO TEX 100 is the most populer standard, most of which is mainly used for the export products. Sunay reminded that the İstanbul office is the first outside office of Hohenstein Germany and that the growth trend continues also in the recent period. Sunay remarked that they experienced an increase in their business volume. However Sunay stated that the increase was not at the desired level, partly due to the certificate demand created as a result of the crisis in Europe.
Sunay remarked that in 2011, 100 Turkish companies received certificate in order to triple themselves with their under titles. Sunay said that these companies include all kinds of textile suppliers such as direct garment manufacturers, dyehouses, companies engaged in sewing and spinning and accessories manufacturers. Sunay emphasized that the certificate is not limited with the garments perceived as the final product. Sunay said that the certificates were valid for one year and later this period was extended.
Sunay remarked that Turkey is a great market for the technical textiles and that some investments, which do not progress rapidly, are made in the country. Sunay stated that Hohenstein provides test services in this field too. “We offer test services in various categories such as antibacterial finish, waterproofing, incombustibility, cold resistance. Antibacterial effect is a very popular issue in Turkey especially in underwears, yarns and hosiery. Besides incombustibility issue has already stood out in the home textiles. Studies are being carried out on these issues through projects and the markets,” said Sunay.
Sunay stated that Hohenstein Institute does not include only OEKO-TEX but also other expertise tests. Sunay added that with its know-how, the institute made lots of innovative projects.
What is OEKO-TEX
OEKO-TEX label shows that the product is tested by the independent test institutes according to more than 100 parameters important for health. This standard was created in 1992 in order to ensure an extensive security level on various textile products such as yarns, finished product, buttons, zippers and all kinds of accessories. The textile products with OEKO-TEX label meet high standards in terms of human ecological properties. More than 9.500 manufacturer from more than 80 countries have their products tested and approved in line with the high standards of OEKO-TEX Association and according to the scientifically-proven parameters of harmful substances with the help of the latest laboratory technologies.
In OEKO-TEX, there are 4 product classes which are; Class 1; textiles and textile toys for babies and children under three years of age. Class 2; textiles which, when used as intended, have a large portion of their surface coming into direct contact with the skin, Class 3; Textiles which, when used as intended, do not come into contact with the skin or ony to a small extent, Class 4; Decoration materials.
