Sustainable Production In the Knitwear Sector

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In addition to evaluating parameters such as yarn thickness, integrating environmentally friendly fibers, especially innovative materials like hemp, into textile design and production processes is of great importance from a sustainability perspective. This approach is believed to support both the environmental and economic sustainability of the textile industry.

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Hasan EŞTÜRK, Evren ESKİ, Tamer TAMTÜRK/İntem Triko Sanayi ve Ticaret Anonim Şirketi, Tasarım Merkezi, Akçaburgaz Mahallesi 3097.Sokak No:8 Esenyurt/İstanbul

ABSTRACT

Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) is an annual plant belonging to the Cannabaceae family, historically used for thousands of years for fiber, food, medicine, ritual, and medical purposes (Li, 1974; Hall & Pacula, 2010).

Some important points to know that make hemp a sustainable raw material are as follows. These;

1. Hemp raw material can be converted into paper 8 times after use.

2. One decare of hemp can produce as much oxygen as 25 decares of trees.

3. While a tree becomes an adult in 20-50 years, hemp grows in 4 months.

4. Pharmaceutical raw materials related to approximately 250 diseases can be produced.

5. Cosmetic materials produced from hemp do not pollute the environment.

6. Hemp can be used in building insulation.

7. Hemp can produce 10 more durable and lighter automotive parts than steel.

8. Hemp contains high amounts of Omega 3-6-9.

9. Clothing made from hemp has better thermal comfort.

10. Biofuel can be obtained from hemp waste.

11. Biopolymers can be produced using hemp.

12. Agriculture can be done without the need for pesticides.

A visual representation of the hemp plant is provided in Figure 1.

Figure 1. Image of the hemp plant (Göre, M., & Kurt, O. (2020).)

All parts of the hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) plant are considered a versatile industrial resource with a wide range of uses. Production can be made from hemp using 5 basic parts of plant. These are listed as seeds, leaves, stems, roots and flowers.

The applications of industrial hemp are illustrated in Figure 2.

Figure 2. Applications of industrial hemp (Gizlenci, Ş., vd. (2019))

The seeds of this plant have been found to be rich in protein, essential fatty acids, and vitamins, making them nutritionally valuable and suitable for use in food products, cosmetic formulations, and biofuel production (Callaway, 2004; Small, 2015; Bouloc, Allegret & Arnaud, 2013). A visual representation of hemp seeds is provided in Figure 3. The oil obtained from the seeds has been used in salad dressings and as a margarine alternative in kitchens, as well as in the production of eco-friendly fuels (Callaway, 2004).

Figure 3. Hemp plant seed (Gizlenci, Ş., vd. (2019))

The fibers obtained from the stems of the hemp plant (shown in Figure 4.a) (shown in Figure 4.b) have been preferred throughout history for textile production due to their durability, breathability, and antibacterial properties, and have also been used in the production of high-quality paper (Ranalli, 2007; Bouloc, Allegret & Arnaud, 2013). The woody parts of the plant have contributed to the sustainable construction sector by being utilized in innovative building materials such as "hempcrete," which are lightweight and have high insulation value (Amaducci et al., 2008). These materials have also been reported to be used as biocomposite raw materials for the automotive industry, as well as bedding for animals and garden mulch material (Ranalli, 2007).

a. Hemp stalk                           b. Hemp fiber

Figure 4. Hemp stalk and hemp fiber (Gizlenci, Ş., vd. (2019))

The flowers and leaves of the plant (visual provided in Figure 5) have been identified to have significant medical potential due to the cannabinoid and terpene components they contain (Clarke & Merlin, 2013; Small, 2015). Medical cannabis continues to be explored as a supportive treatment option for various health issues such as pain, inflammation, neurological disorders, and anxiety (Small, 2015). Extracts obtained from these parts have also been found to be used in cosmetic product formulations, aromatherapy applications, and essential oil production (Bouloc, Allegret & Arnaud, 2013). The roots have been reported to have some traditional medicinal uses, as well as being considered as an agricultural rotation crop for soil remediation and erosion reduction (Clarke & Merlin, 2013).

Figure 5. Hemp plant flowers and leaves (Gizlenci, Ş., vd. (2019))

The versatility of the hemp plant has been examined with increasing interest in fields such as food, textiles, paper, construction, medicine, cosmetics, and environmental improvement, highlighting its industrial value (Small, 2015). As a result, the potential of hemp has been better understood through research conducted in different regions, making it possible to position it as a resource in line with sustainability goals (Bouloc, Allegret & Arnaud, 2013).

Hemp fiber stands out as an eco-friendly alternative in the textile industry. As a natural resource, hemp is a plant that can be grown with much less water, pesticides, and chemical fertilizers compared to other traditional textile plants. Additionally, due to its rapid growth cycle, hemp can be re-cultivated annually. Hemp fibers possess environmentally friendly properties that decompose biologically faster and are recyclable compared to synthetic fibers. The production of hemp textile products consumes less energy and water, while the use of organic hemp helps improve soil health. Consequently, the environmental impacts of hemp textile products are significantly lower when compared to other textile materials, making them an essential part of the sustainable fashion industry (Scaglia, 2019; Matos, 2020).

Within the scope of this study, to achieve sustainability in textiles, obtain a more environmentally friendly textile product, and investigate the usability of the obtained product, flat knitted fabrics containing 80% tencel and 20% hemp in Ne 10 yarn count, and 80% recycled polyester and 20% hemp in Ne 12 and Ne 18 yarn counts were produced. Shrinkage and pilling tests were then applied to the obtained knitted fabrics, and their performances were evaluated.

İNTEM KNITWEAR AND SUSTAINABILITY VISION

The title "Green Harvest For the Future" reflects İntem Knitwear's perspective, principle, and vision on sustainability. This approach stems from the project name we have given to our renewable energy sources production facility. Our Energy Management unit regularly monitors emissions from energy and natural gas consumption and prepares carbon reduction projects (CRP) to address the world we have borrowed from future generations. By building the future today, we track carbon emissions per product and kilogram, and meet all our energy needs from our Solar Power Plant, reducing our carbon footprint. Knowing that only 0.3% of the world's water is usable, we monitor our water footprint daily and work diligently towards our reduction targets.

I would like to express our hope to be a "nail" in the industry with the following words:

"A nail saves a shoe, a shoe saves a horse, a horse saves a commander, a commander saves an army, and an army saves a country."

Tamer TAMTÜRK

In the field of environmental sustainability, we have set intermediate and final targets for reducing emissions and water footprint, and have created our prioritization matrix within the framework of the Sustainable Development Goals. In our work on product life cycle, we meticulously conduct product cycle analyses based on the business management approach. This way, we take the necessary steps to monitor and improve all processes from "cradle to grave." Additionally, I would like to emphasize that at İntem Knitwear, we not only focus on producing the final product but also that the majority of our team consists of women. I would like to conclude my writing with a quote from the famous fashion designer Anne Klein:

"Clothes won't change the world, the women who wear them will."

Evren ESKİ

İntem Knitwear's sustainability projects encompass multi-dimensional approaches such as the preference for eco-friendly raw materials, optimization of production processes, enhancement of energy and water efficiency, waste minimization, social responsibility initiatives, and compliance with international sustainability standards. Within this scope, İntem Knitwear, as part of the activities of the Design and R&D Center, undertakes projects in various areas including the use of recycled raw materials, materials that reduce energy and water consumption, and the development of designs from the company's own waste.

1. INTRODUCTION

Sustainability in the textile sector refers to the balanced management of environmental, economic, and social dimensions. This concept aims to efficiently use natural resources, reduce waste, and lower the carbon footprint at all stages from production processes to the use of final products. It also includes social responsibility elements such as respect for workers' rights, safe working conditions, and contributions to the community. The adoption of innovative technologies and circular economy practices plays a key role in ensuring sustainability in the sector. For example, the use of recycled raw materials and production techniques that reduce water and chemical use minimize the environmental impact of the textile industry. Thus, sustainability aims not only to provide environmental benefits but also to support long-term economic growth and social welfare (Şen, 2008; Fletcher, 2014).

Sustainable fibers in the textile industry are of great importance for reducing environmental impacts and efficiently using resources. Materials such as organic cotton, bamboo, hemp, lyocell (Tencel), recycled polyester, and wood-based fibers stand out as prominent options in sustainable textile production. These fibers provide environmental benefits with features such as lower water and energy consumption during production processes, reduced carbon emissions, and decreased chemical use. Especially fibers like hemp and lyocell are biodegradable and derived from renewable sources, making them suitable for circular economy principles. At the same time, materials like recycled polyester support environmentally conscious production methods by reducing the amount of waste. The use of sustainable fibers not only ensures the production of eco-friendly textile products but also steers the industry towards a more responsible future (Shen et al., 2010; Kozlowski and Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, 2012; Fletcher, 2014).

Hemp fiber has many superior qualities in terms of environmental, economic, and performance aspects among sustainable textile fibers. The hemp plant requires minimal water and fertilizer during cultivation and can often be grown without pesticides, significantly reducing its environmental impacts compared to organic cotton. The stages of obtaining yarn from hemp fiber are shown in Figure 6. Compared to fast-renewable fibers like bamboo, hemp requires fewer chemical processes during processing, thus causing less environmental harm. Unlike recycled polyester, hemp is a fully biodegradable fiber, offering advantages in waste management. Compared to cellulose-based fibers like lyocell (Tencel), hemp has a higher carbon absorption capacity and also helps prevent soil erosion. Additionally, hemp fibers are an ideal choice for long-lasting and healthy textile products due to their durability and natural breathability. These features make hemp fiber an unrivaled alternative in sustainable textile production (van der Werf, 2004; Ranalli and Venturi, 2004; Cherrett et al., 2005; Kozlowski and Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, 2012).

Figure 6. Stages of yarn production from hemp fiber (Rehman, M., vd. (2021))

In this study, the advantages of hemp fibers over other sustainable fibers were discussed, and the effects of a 20% hemp fiber blend on pilling and shrinkage in knitted fabrics were examined.

2. AN EXAMPLE FOR THE USE OF HEMP FIBER IN KNITWEAR

In this study, yarns with a composition of 80% Tencel and 20% hemp in Ne 10 yarn count, and 80% recycled polyester and 20% hemp in Ne 12 and Ne 18 yarn counts were sourced from Karacasu Textiles. The test results for the yarns are provided in Table 1.

Table 1. Test Results of the Yarns