Denim fabric is a kind of fabric which produced by weaving from warp yarn dyed with indigo dyes and after sizing applications. It has been known as “kot” in Turkey’s market. Because of a trader whose name was Muhtesem Kot, was the first person who brouth denim fabric in Turkish market in 1960 s. His surname had became a brand name for denim fabric and jeans.

Denim is unique fabric which getting younger and more becoming widespread while aging. Today, Denim fabric and jeans pants, even though they are complementary in position, actually the sitiuation were different  in the past. Although there are many theories about the name of denim, the most common and accepted is that;

The name of denim comes from a town (Nimes) from France. Fabric which produced with wool or silk in the town called “Serge de Nimes”.It is assumed to amended as “Denim” at the transition from French to English. The prominent assumption for name of jeans is that; It is a type of fabric which produced with cotton or linen and wool blend in Genoa ,a city of Italy.  The contemporary use of the word "jeans" comes from the French word for Genoa (Gênes) In summary, both Denim and jeans that are two similar fabric which produce from two different country and  use for same purpose. The unique difference is that denim fabric´s warp is dyed and weft is non dyed, but jeans fabric´s both warp and weft are dyed. Probably the increasingly becoming widespread using of both fabric,increasing similarity and that clothing brands using “jeans” word by adding next of brand name have given meaning pants for jeans and remained meaning fabric for denim.

The history of denim is quite old. However, no doubt the founder levis, Levi Strauss took the denim fabric that worn by workers as working clothes in America and brought it a garment that worn by every class of people around World.

Levi Strauss whose family had immigrated from Germany to America at mid of 18.s centry had devoloped a stronge pants or garment for gold mines. That garments had been started to use for covboy in time. In addition, during 2 nt. World war, the denim fabric had been used as  army uniform. It has been worn by every classes of people around  world.

There are three different denim fabric production way nowadays. These,

• Rope Dyeing
• Slasher Dyeing
• Loop Dyeing

There are so many negative and positive differences between mentioned three indigo dyeing methods. These differences had been shown at Table 1.

The Rope dyeing method has more production capacity as compare to others. That capacity is depend of number of ropes. For instance, a rope dyeing machine which has 24 or 32 ropes can produce 2 or 3 times more than slasher and loop dyeing methods.

In the view of productivity, the rope dye has more effective than others because of without stopping machine during  lots transition so there is no obligatory waste yarn as compare to slasher and loop dyeing.

In the point of color fastness, the fabric which made from warp with rope dye is better as compare to slasher and loop dye

Although there are so many application to minimize mentioned differences recently, it has not been reached to the same results yet.

There is no side selvedge problem in rope dyeing but in loop and slasher dyeing can be appeared. The risk of side selvedge problem is less in loop dye than slasher dye.

In the view of investment cost, both machine set up and necessary construction in rope dye is much more than slasher and loop dye.

In the view of production cost, both consumption energy and the number of workers is much more than slasher and loop dyeing.The most well-known indigo dyeing methods are respectively rope dyeing, slasher dyeing and loop dyeing

Table 1. Comperation of indigo dyeing methods

The global denim fabric production is approximately 7 billion mt / year. It has been estimated that denim fabric production will be come 8,2 billion meter / year in 2021. Turnover of jeans market is ap. 70 billion usd / year.

It has been known that more than 70% of global denim fabric production is from Asia. Because of labor cost  and energy expenses are very cheap as compare other regions. China is the biggest denim fabric manufacturer in the World. Latin America countries are second biggest manufacturers.  The thirty one is India, forth one is Turkey and fifth one is Pakistan.

Akfil Tekstil and Narin Teksil are the first denim fabric manufacturers of Turkey. Isko, Orta Anadolu, Bossa, Calık and Kilim companies had started denim production just after them. The denim production had been increased at begining of 2000 s.  Kipas, Matessa, Birlik, Mimatas, Ak Kumas, Korat, Emin and Sirikcioglu had started denim fabric production. Tusa, Aba, Maritas and İskur are denim fabric manufacturers who started production after 2010.

The denim fabric production has been started at beginning 1980 s. There are so many company that became global brand. Beside that some of well know manufacturers are already out of market. Is denim still a smart investment area or not for Turkey? It is really very difficult to reply this question. Because we need to survey all figures of denim market and also some action which will be taken by government, like free trade agreements which government is working on it.

It has been seen that Turkish denim fabric and jeans market has been changed as per national and international economic situations. The amount of export and import of denim fabric for last 15 years has been shown at Table 2. and Table 3.

Table 2. Export of denim fabric (Tuik,2016)               Table 3. Import of denim fabric (Tuik,2016)

As per data which showed above import of denim fabric is much more than export till 2007.  The export of denim fabric had come to close or little more between 2008 – 2010.

The import of denim fabric rapidly decreased because of anti-dumping just after 2011

Export and import of jeans garments have been shown at Table 4. And Table 5.

Table 4. Export of jeans garments (Tuik,2016)       Table 5. Import of jeans garments (Tuik,2016)

The export of denim garment had been realized much more as compare to denim fabric and also import of denim garments. The reason of that is Turkey has huge experience in garment manufacturing and it´s close to Europe and other markets. As is has been seen from above data’s, Turkish denim garment export is decreasing or keeping same level from 2010 till today. Because far east countries are getting more share with their less labor cost and energy from this market.

REFERANCES

1. Tuik.(2016), Türkiye İstatistik Kurumu Dış Ticaret Veritabanı. Https://biruni.tuik.gov.tr/disticaretapp/menu.zul
2. İtkib. (2015), İstatistiklerle Türkiyenin denim kumaş ve konfeksiyon diş ticareti.  http://www.itkib.org.tr/ihracat/DisTicaretBilgileri/raporlar/dosyalar/2013/DENIM_RAPOR_2013.pdf
3. Denimsandjeans. (2015), Denim mills directory. http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim-companies-directory/
4. Denimsandjeans. (2016), World denim market production and consumption report http://www.denimsandjeans.com/latest-denim-reports/denim-data-figures/world-denim-market-a-report-on-capacitiesmarket-size-forecasts-etc/
5. Pdma, (2015), Pakistan denim manufacturers and exporters association. http://www.pdmea.com/PDMEAMembers.html
6. Levis, (2016), A short history of denim. Leynn Dourney. http://lsco.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/A-Short-History-of-Denim2.pdf
7. Satoshi, U. Science of İndigo Dyeing. Mukogawa Women´s University / Japan
8. Roessler, A. New Electrochemical Methotds for The Reduction of  Vat Dyes. Swiss Federal Institute of Technical Siecess, Zurich, 2003.