Luxury Approaches in Denim Examination of the Concept of 'Denim Couture'

SUMMARY

This study examines how traditional Turkish handicrafts can be used in modern textile applications for the design of luxury denim pants. Within the scope of the research, denim fabrics with different dyeing concentrations were produced and various effecting processes were applied to these fabrics. After the effecting processes, wire embroidery technique, which is a traditional Turkish embroidery art, and original patterns created by the designers of Tayeks Tekstil Dış Ticaret Anonim Şirketi Design Center were used on the fabrics and these patterns were applied on luxury denim trouser designs. The study has demonstrated the potential of traditional arts to add aesthetic and cultural value in contemporary fashion design, and has also shown how they can provide a basis for innovative designs for denim fabrics. The subject is also being carried out as a design project at Tayeks Design Center.

1. INTRODUCTION

Denim is a type of textile, usually woven from cotton yarns, which is widely preferred in the clothing industry due to its durability and ease of use. This fabric, which is usually produced with twill weaving technique, is dyed with blue indigo dye to get its characteristic color. Denim fabrics have a wide range of uses from workwear to daily fashion due to their durable nature. In recent years, innovative approaches to sustainability have been adopted in denim production, such as reducing water consumption and using recycled materials (Paul & Robson, 2019). In addition, more environmentally friendly materials such as organic cotton and vegetable natural dyestuffs are being used to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry (Smith et al., 2020).

According to the Turkish Statistical Institute's (TurkStat) Foreign Trade Statistics for 2023, denim fabric and denim product exports exceeded USD 2.2 billion, making a significant contribution to the national economy. While these figures indicate a growth of approximately 5% compared to the previous year, they reveal a steady development of the sector. According to the sectoral report published by the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TIM) in the first quarter of 2024, the European Union countries (45% share) and the United States (20% share) stand out among the largest buyers in the export market. This reflects Turkey's geographical location advantage, logistics facilities and strong supply chain management. Premium segment denim products in particular play a key role in the supply chains of global brands thanks to their high yarn quality, advanced finishing techniques, fast delivery times and trend-oriented designs. Turkish denim manufacturers that can meet the demands of these brands regularly find a place in the collections of fashion giants. According to TIM's 2024 Sectoral Outlook Report, the sector is expected to maintain its growth trend in the coming period thanks to increasing global demand, innovative production techniques and sustainability-oriented business models. In particular, in the medium and long term, factors such as the rise of value-added product exports, increased brand awareness, and the strengthening of the effectiveness of R&D centers and design offices will continue to carry the Turkish denim sector to the top of the global competition. These developments will contribute to the overall welfare of the economy by increasing the country's export revenues, maintaining employment and sustaining integration into global supply chains (TÜİK Dış Ticaret İstatistikleri, 2023, TİM Sektörel Raporlar, “Hazırgiyim ve Konfeksiyon Sektörü 2024 Görünümü).

Turkey's denim production covers a wide value chain from raw material procurement to yarn production, weaving, dyeing, finishing and garment stages. Integrated facilities located in different regions, mainly in Istanbul, Bursa, Izmir, Kahramanmaraş, Gaziantep and Adana, allow for flexible and fast production capacity. TurkStat data shows that a significant share of total employment in the textile and apparel sectors is based on denim production and processing. This makes the sector strategic not only in terms of economic size but also in terms of job creation and social development. Policies to increase women's employment and flexible working models, in particular, put the denim sector one step ahead in terms of social responsibility (TÜİK Dış Ticaret İstatistikleri).

Denim Couture refers to a design concept that blends traditional denim fabric with luxury fashion. An example of denim couture is given in Figure 1. This concept takes denim fabric beyond just everyday wear and integrates it into the high fashion scene with sophisticated cuts and details. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Ralph Lauren, in particular, have pioneered this trend by using denim material in special dresses, jackets and evening dress collections. The success of Denim Couture stems from the fact that it combines the flexibility and durability of denim fabric with an aesthetic value. Today, this trend has gained a more eco-friendly dimension by combining with sustainability trends and designs made from recycled denim fabrics. (McQuillan, 2018; Fisher, 2021).

Figure 1. Denim couture example (Ralph Lauren 2024 Spring/Summer collection)

Wire embroidery is a traditional handicraft in Turkish culture and is generally developed in and around Antep. An example of wire crimping is given in figure 2. This technique is applied by embroidering thin metal wires on fabric and is often used as a decorative element in textile products such as handkerchiefs, shawls and headscarves. These embroideries, where shiny metallic threads meet the fabric, carry both aesthetic and cultural value. The motifs used in wire-cutting offer a rich variety, often with flowers, geometric shapes and patterns inspired by nature. Today, wire embroidery is considered as an important cultural heritage that both preserves traditional motifs and finds its place in modern textile and accessory designs. (Öztürk, 2015; Yılmaz & Çakır, 2020).

Figure 2. Example of traditional Turkish wire embroidery technique

Traditional Turkish embroideries such as wire crimping are used as an innovative method to create decorative patterns on denim surfaces. With the wire embroidery technique, metallic wires create shiny and three-dimensional effects on denim fabric, adding aesthetic value. In addition to traditional motifs, modern and geometric patterns are also used in this technique to make denim designs more unique. This approach not only keeps traditional handicrafts alive but also creates a new style in denim fashion. (Ergün & Yıldız, 2018; Kaya, 2021).

In this study, the reflections of the concept of luxury, which has become increasingly important in the fashion industry, on denim garments are examined from a broad perspective, focusing on the historical development process of these luxury approaches, the innovations it has brought to the design discipline in this process, its interaction with competitive strategies within the sector and ultimately its role in shaping consumer expectations. In addition, how the denim product groups designed by Tayeks Tekstil Dış Ticaret Anonim Şirketi are constructed within the framework of this luxury approach, how the products are positioned in terms of aesthetic, functional and brand value, and the technological and material-based innovations integrated into the production processes are examined in a holistic perspective.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS

2.1. Materials

Within the scope of the study, denim fabrics with two different blend ratios (80% pre- consumer cotton- 20% recycled cotton and 100% organic cotton) with a weight of 394 g/m² and 347 g/m² respectively were used in 3/1 twill Z direction. Images of the denim fabrics are given in Figure 3.

Figure 3. Images of denim fabrics

2.2. Methods

Dry processes such as dry mustache, rodeo, spray rodeo were applied to these indigo dyed fabrics in order to achieve a vintage look. Then, in the stone washing process, the indigo dyed denims were treated with pumice stone in an industrial washing machine. After the effecting process, different designs were created on the fabrics by using a. sparkling harmony, b. sparkling squares, c. sparkling waves, d. pearlized touch, e. wire embroidery technique and luxury denim fabrics were obtained. The images of the luxury denim fabrics obtained within the scope of the study are shown in Figure 4.

a                                    b                                  c

d                                        e

Figure 4. Images of luxury denim fabrics obtained within the scope of the study

3. RESULT

This study presents a comprehensive analysis of the innovative use of traditional Turkish handicrafts in luxury denim design and the designs created by the designers of Tayeks Tekstil Dış Ticaret Anonim Şirketi. In particular, the applicability of the wire embroidery  technique in denim fabrics has created a rich value both aesthetically and culturally. The findings of the study demonstrated that traditional arts can effectively merge with modern textile design and highlighted how luxury approaches in the denim sector can overlap with sustainability trends. The results revealed that cultural heritage preservation and aesthetic innovations can be presented together in contemporary fashion design, and it is thought to have the potential to inspire future design studies.

With the designs created, differences will be revealed in the fashion market by blending and presenting the unique cultural accumulation in Anatolia with modern styles. In this respect, our own cultural values will be both kept alive and promoted and awareness will be raised on behalf of Turkish handicrafts.

Within the scope of this study, it is aimed to present how we transfer them to the present and the future with a modern interpretation by being inspired by the cultural values of the Ottoman Empire and Anatolia and the traditions left in the chests. By rebuilding the bridge from the past to the future with the richness of locality, Tayeks Tekstil Dış Ticaret ve Anonim Şirketi will bring it together with the customer in the new collection and this cultural heritage will be transferred to future generations.

REFERENCES

-Ergün, F., & Yıldız, S. (2018). Geleneksel El Sanatlarının Modern Kumaşlarda Kullanımı: Tel Kırma ve Denim Örneği. Tekstil ve Moda Araştırmaları Dergisi.

-Fisher, M. (2021). Sustainable High Fashion: The Role of Denim Couture. Bloomsbury Publishing.

-Kaya, T. (2021). Denim Tasarımında Geleneksel İşleme Tekniklerinin Yenilikçi Kullanımı. Moda ve Tekstil Tasarımı Yayınları.

-Mc Quillan, H. (2018). Denim in Haute Couture: Evolution of a Fabric. Fashion Theory Journal.

-Öztürk, M. (2015). Türk İşleme Sanatları ve Tel Kırma Teknikleri. Milli Folklor Dergisi.

-Paul, R., & Robson, R. (2019). Denim: Manufacture, Finishing, and Applications. Woodhead Publishing.

-Smith, J., Johnson, L., & Taylor, M. (2020). Sustainable Practices in Textile Industry. Springer.

-TÜİK Dış Ticaret İstatistikleri, 2023. https://www.tuik.gov.tr

-TİM Sektörel Raporlar, “Hazır giyim ve Konfeksiyon Sektörü 2024 Görünümü”. https://www.tim.org.tr

-Yılmaz, Z., & Çakır, S. (2020). Geleneksel El Sanatlarında Sürdürülebilirlik: Tel Kırma Örneği. Kültür Araştırmaları Yayınları.

-https://vogue.com.tr/moda/ralph-laurenin-heartland-glamour-defilesi-hakkinda-bilmeniz-gereken-5-detay

-http://www.bartin.gov.tr/tel-kirma